Radio – calling new Nordic
While new restaurants have been mushrooming in the rest of Copenhagen, inner Frederiksberg (though technically not Copenhagen) has been rather deserted on the (hip) restaurant front. Luckily, something’s cooking in Frederiksberg and Radio has entered the scene.
Radio is another child of Claus Meyer. Named after its’ next door neighbour, the old radio house. Interieur is sleek, modern and minimalistic. Radio’s philsophy is very much build around Claus Meyer’s Almanak thinking – using locally produced ingredients and adhering to the season.
We started out with a small snack.
Salsify with garlic creme
Squid, kale, apple
The first course was squid, kale puree, brown butter, brussel sprouts and shallots. The very attentive waiter also informed us that there were Granny Smith apples in the course, but it turned out there was a small misunderstanding in the kitchen and the courses went out without apples.
Nevertheless, I like the course with its’ subtle flavours of kale and sprouts, chewy squid and sweet brown butter.
Cood, celeriac, seaweed
Next up was cod, celeriac, almondsauce and seaweed. The course taste like the sea.
Mussels, onion, jerusalem artichoke
Jerusalem artichoke cream, pickled salad onion, scallops, watercress and mussel foam. Light and delicate flavours.
Pheasant, leek, apple
As a compensation for the small mix-up with the first course the kitchen offered us an extra course. It was pheasant with leek, apple foam (so we got our apple) and ciderfoam. Very flavourful tender pheasant.
Veal, smoke beetroot
The veal came with dehydrated beetroots, smoked marrow and sauce of horse radish. The veal was a bit anonymous, but the horse radish-beetroot-marrow-combination worked very well.
We threw in a cheese course – Deichkäse from Southern Slesvig. Matured for a year. It came with fermented quince.
Sourdough bread, pear, buttermilk
Radio is great. Simple as that. Prime Nordic ingredients and delicate flavour combinations. Don’t expect little Noma – it’s not and Radio deserves to stand on its’ own.
Visisted: January 2012
Estimated price: 475 DKK